CLIMBING MONT BLANC (4,879m) OVERVIEW
As the highest peak in Western Europe, Mont Blanc is perhaps the most famed ascent in the Alps, and is considered the birthplace of climbing. First climbed in 1786, Mont Blanc maintains the same allure today, given the peak’s stunning beauty, pristine villages, and its prominence as the Alps’ high point. The peak has relatively easy access due to the trams and lifts that begin in the Chamonix valley.
Climbers are typically challenged by the physical nature of the climb. Weather and objective hazards are also a consideration when planning a summit bid.
We begin our Mont Blanc climb in beautiful Chamonix, meeting at the hotel in the evening for a group dinner. The following morning our guides complete a full, detailed gear check after our morning breakfast and then we head up to the Aiguilles Rouges for some alpine rock and snow climbing training.
Sample itinerary 6 day adventure.
- Day 0 (Day before the starting date.) – You will want to arrive in Chamonix by mid-day on this day. Get checked into your hotel and then plan on connecting with the rest of the team. The guides will arrange a get together for a short team informational meeting followed by dinner in the evening so all are set prior to the official start in the morning.
- Day 1 – Meet at the hotel at 8:00 a.m., all ready to go with alpine day pack, extra layers, lunch, water, sun protection, alpine boots, crampons, ice axe, helmet, harness and a minimum 2 locking carabiners. Exact personal gear will of course be dependent on the group’s objective for the day. For the entire program the day’s schedule will be determined based on current weather, current climbing conditions and group abilities. The first day will be used as a warm-up and re-familiarization of techniques, with a moderate day objective and a chance to shake out the cobwebs. Likely objective: a traverse of the Aiguilles Crochues, a lovely ridge climb with easy but exposed rock climbing and beautiful views, accessed by lifts from the valley below. Overnight at Hotel.
- Day 2 – Another morning start from the hotel with the destination being the Aiguilles de Marbrees. The team will normally take the gondola up to the top of the Aiguille du Midi and then another lift over to Point Hellbronner near the Italian border. From there the climb is close by, with a fun combination of glacier travel, snow climbing and rock scrambling. The team will overnight in the Torino Hut (3,375 m).
- Day 3 – An early morning rise at the Torino Hut for another enjoyable climb. The Aiguille d’Entreves is a nice length climb, with more interesting rock, snow travel and crampon work as conditions require. After the climb, the group will reverse the gondola ride back down to Chamonix for showers, a good dinner and overnight at the hotel.
- Day 4 – Travel to Les Houches to catch the Bellevue Lift and then the train to Nid D’Aigle. From here a trail hike of approximately two hours to the Tette Rousse Hut (3,167 m). Overnight at the Hut.
- Day 5 – Pre-dawn rise at the hut to climb to start the ascent. Shortly after departing the hut, the path crosses the Great Couloir, a hundred meter long path that crosses an area of potential rock fall. Once safely across, the route scrambles up a rock ridge past the old Gouter Hut to the crest of the Aiguille du Gouter at an altitude of 3,815m. The New Gouter Hut is nearby. From here the climb heads up the mountain on open snow field, finally passing on the old rescue hut, the Vallot Hut at 4,362m. The final ascent is up a narrowing arete, to the summit which broadens out into a flat football field sized area. The team will descend to the Gouter Hut. Overnight at the Hut.
- Day 6 – Back to Chamonix, by mid-day for a well-earned shower, celebratory dinner, and a final good sleep at the hotel. Overnight at hotel. Prepare for trip home.